Scarborough: A day trip to the Yorkshire Coast

To any young child from Yorkshire, Scarborough was the ultimate day trip. It was all flashing lights, 2 pence slot machines and candy floss, a kids version of Las Vegas minus the sleaze and sin. I used to save up copper coins year round in a tin anticipating the road trip to the seaside to play on the Pacman machine, the horse racing and the overly frustrating claw that all dads seem to think they are master of. I was half expecting to dislike my return to Scarborough, what we like as children never quite seems to emulate the feeling of when we've matured, but it had much more to offer besides the gaming arcades that caught my attention 15 years ago.

Lobster traps along the harbour wall with the grand Scarborough hotel in the
background.

We visited the Yorkshire town on a Monday, very different from a Summer's weekend when everyone seems to have had the same idea to spend their time in the very limited English sun by the sea. The air was calm and the temperature mild, seafront road like a quiet country lane, the only activity being the local fisherman drinking their morning cups of coffee and yakking beside a small breakfast stall next to the sea wall. The stench along the harbour was a combination of freshly caught fish and sea salt, almost burning the inside of our nostrils from the potency, the culprit of which was the recently used lobster traps pilled up along the dockside. At this point Lidya was debating whether or not a human could get trapped in the meshed netting but after a few minutes of laughing/arguing we agreed upon the fact that we'd probably have drowned had it been us, deservedly so if we'd managed to get fooled by a lobster net! Although I may struggle to portray Lidya's mind frame in writing, a moment never stays dull for long as she ponders yet another utterly bizarre circumstance. Scarborough is split into two bays, the South being the more active touristic beach with the shops and amusements, the North being much quieter with a handful of restaurants and the aquarium at the very northern point. The bays are separated by a natural headland on which sits the towns ancient castle (which I shall walk through later), one of Scarborough's most iconic buildings along with its famous hotel, the Grand Hotel. Rising above the bay, the Victorian styled B&B looks much like the Grand Budapest Hotel, it oozes character from its facade and I'm hoping its charm is completed by a totally incompetent concierge and mischievous bellboy!

A local pub. It seemed massively out of place
among the arcades.

After losing half a years 2 pence savings (3.20GBP) on slot machines and only a troll key chain to show for our efforts we heading off the beaten track towards the town through a terraced alleyway to a road behind the sea front. We wandered along and was pleasantly surprised to see a aura much more associated with an old English market town; independent shops selling everything from devilishly indulgent homemade fudge to a toy store of train sets, old matchbox cars and scalextric. If only I was 7 or there was a small child fit to steal for the duration of my nostalgia trip.
The heart of any English countryside town or village is the market and although the inside may have seen a more thriving time, the outside certainly matches Scarborough's hodgepodge streets. Brick build, with arched windows, it looks the part of a nineteenth century mill and I can't image its appearance has change much, if at all, since then. The inside didn't really live up to expectation, whether that was because we visited on a Monday morning or the fact that Tesco's is just more convenient. There was only a handful of stalls, albeit with delicious looking fresh fruit and veg and some quality butchers. Downstairs though, in the vaults, something that looks like a possible setting for SAW XXIVX or whichever number they're currently filming, was a different story. It had charm, character, potentially poltergeists, all hidden away in like cavities between the vaulted low ceiling. There was an artists shop, old fashioned toy store, second hand bookshop, even a very peculiar doll store whose merchandise looked suspiciously the work of someone who practices voodooism. There was even a cafe downstairs that was packed, no doubt a locals favourite.

Scarborough's South Beach from the castle walls.

On the balcony at the Harbour View Cafe. Fisherman sort through
the lobsters and crabs they've just hauled in.

Since we were by the seaside in not so sunny England, it would be almost an insult to this great land not to dine on one of our most celebrated dishes, fish and chips. It wasn't quite midday so we had a cuppa tea in Cafe View, a quaint eatery whose mouthwatering cakes on display in the window enticed us in. The bay window faced the sea, the strip much busier now than previous and the seagulls out in force. Lidya had taken to searching TripAdvisor whilst sipping her Yorkshire Tea for the towns best chippie. Having found one, she searched the address and with a puzzling look on her face was preoccupied with her phone for a good 5 minutes. After passing me her phone and claiming it was shut down it took me all of 2 seconds to realise it was open. 50 metres away. Straight in front of us out the window! I used to study geography in a mixed sex class and all students were excellent map readers so in no way am I sexiest but Lidya did embrace the stereotype based on women reading maps! After finishing up in the cafe, which was very lovely, friendly and served a very refreshing cuppa, we headed to Harbour View Cafe on the West Pier, jutting out into the ebbing tide. Imaging, strolling along a pier, the days catch, lobsters, crab, North Sea cod all being brought into the dockside warehouses, the salty sea air icy crisp from the preservation boxes, all whilst walking to eat fish and chips. Now that's something a city street chippie can't buy! I did mention the overpowering smells when I walked in, just as a conversation starter, to which the staff showed concern and eagerly went to investigate but it turns out my nose is more acclimatised to my works coolant and oil as oppose to the fresh sea breeze these fisherman are born and raised with. I have to admit, the cafe lived up to the build up and to TripAdvisor's outstanding ratings. Melt in the mouth, battered crispy haddock, beautiful mushing peas and chunky chips, all without the excess grease that lets so many chippies down. It even had a balcony in which to enjoy the view but be warned, the seagulls don't take kindly to strangers, especially when you have chips!

View of the bay from Harbour View Cafe. The castle overlooks the town.

Headland Red from Wold Top Brewery.

It took at least half an hour to persuade Lidya that walking up the hill to Scarborough Castle would be worth the effort. Although she took a rest break at regular intervals (every bench we passed at about 100 metres apart) and huffed, puffed and complained more than the characters in the recent Everest film we made it to the front gatehouse to find a paved path and road from the opposite side of the hill right up to the entrance. If ever there was a 'Are you kidding me!?' look then it was definitely plastered all over Lidya's face. As members of English Heritage we visit a lot of castles and one of the essential characteristics for us is its setting and views. The castle's occupiers of the past, regardless of whatever hardships they may have suffered, must have been eased by that spectacular landscape. You can see for miles! To the south you can see the bay we'd previously wandered around and the main town of Scarborough, Filey further down the coast, all the way to the prehistoric Flamborough Head Heritage Coastline, England's fossil hunting grounds. To the north the vista stretches out revealing the aquarium at the far end of the northern bay, surpassed by the undulating shoreline towards Robin Hood's Bay.
The keep is in a ruinous state but possibly adds to the charm, a reminder of days gone by when it used to keep a watchful eye over the historic bay. We even encountered and shared poses with a lovely elderly Italian couple who'd ventured up. There is half a keep left, a narrow gatehouse, several walls still very much intact at the inland Western side, foundations and remains of buildings of passed fortress dwellers and a moat. The wall snakes down the hillside to the gatehouse, offering a daunting passageway for any would be invaders. Add to that a much more modern cafe, free wine tasting and a brilliant selection of locally brewed beer from the Wold Top Brewery, it makes for an ideal picnic spot on the extensive grounds.

View from Scarborough Castle walls towards the Northern bay.

 Scarborough is definitely a seaside town that I remember as a kid and one that I was hesitant to revisit as an adult but Lidya and myself both really enjoyed it and would recommend a day trip there if the opportunity arises. It has a good range of activities from everyone; arcades, historical sights, walks along the coastline, plenty of cafes and decent shopping.

To Do

- The Castle - 5.20 GBP for adults and 3.10 GBP for children
- Harbour View Cafe - Best fish and chips around and with, unsurprisingly, a harbour view! I think it was about 14 GBP for 2 very large meals.

The Facts

The castle is the iconic centerpiece to Scarborough's 'cityscape'. It has been occupied for around 3,000 years as its geography makes it the ideal fortress. Although it has seen better days, it's remains have seen much royalty and battles, including the English Civil War. The keep was built in 1138 by William Le Gros. The town holds claim to be the first British seaside resort, ever since the seventeenth century and remains one of the busiest in the UK. The Grand Hotel was built in 1863 and is one of 'The Seven Wonders of the English Seaside' according to Historic England. Yep, apparently that's a thing!

Ratings

(Ratings out of 5)

Scarborough - 3
Castle - 4
Harbour View Cafe - 4
Market - 2

The remains of Scarborough castle keep, overlooking the North Sea.