Overlooking the village of Castleton, Peveril Castle, named after William Perevil who was the original occupier, stands as a reminder of medieval governance over the Peak District. Today it is in a ruinous state but with a bit of a imagination, although not primarily used as a fortress for warfare, it must have cast an imposing shadow over a vast but otherwise rural landscape. We parked up in Castleton, pretty much an idyll British countryside village, next to the Peak Information centre and museum, before wandering through the narrow streets to the base of the hill. After a zigzagged steep climb up the northern face of the peak you enter the castle through what used to be the back entrance at the northeast, who face is too sheer to offer any decent access to the carts or transport of the period. Luckily for Lidya, there were plenty of benches on the way up the path. All I kept reminding her was that she should be grateful English Heritage had laid a walkway as anyone attempting to ransack the castle throughout history wouldn't have been so fortunate.
The fort was constructed shortly after the Battle of Hastings and subsequent Norman conquest to govern over the 'Forest of the Peak'. The national park was originally used as royal hunting grounds so provide an ideal location for any regal subjects to reside in their brief stay. Lead mining was the major source of income for the castle which was accountable for controlling the taxation on this and milling activities. As Lidya and I found out, the castle sits in a beautiful location with spectacular views over what is now picturesque postcard English scenery. Although our thighs and calves were aching, the view is definitely worth the ascent. The walls, much lower than their original height due to weathering and the removal of defunct stones for other purposes, encircle the keep and foundations of various buildings including a grand hall and owners living quarters.We found the best view in the grounds to be a central bench midway up overlooking Castleton and the western end of the Hope Valley all the way to Mam Tor. It's definitely an ideal picnic site if you don't find yourselves shedding weight on the climb up.
The keep on the southwest corner stands on the highest part of the castle interior and is unfortunately much dilapidated. Peveril is an example of a smaller keep, set on only two floors, much less striking than the likes of Conisborough and Bolsover nearby. However, it's certainly not without its charm. The square fort consists of what was once a storeroom at the bottom and an entertaining chamber for hosting and ceremonies. We found that from the outside despite a perfectly clear day, the cawing of the glossy black ravens overhead and the decaying state of the keep added a certain eeriness to the place. Inside it's anything but, however. The roof is vacant and the keep has large domineering windows to observe the surrounding landscape so it is very well lit. Leaning against the cold middle aged stones admiring the scenic panorama, it's easy to believe that Peveril and his successors must have held one of the more pleasant roles of the kingdom at the time.
Castleton is a good day out for rambling, a relaxed family stroll with a cup of tea, or, as I have found out, great for a pub crawl (it's a British tradition!). This time however, as I had to work in the evening, we decided to visit the Three Roofs Cafe across from our car park. The quaint little cafe is built, like the other houses and shops, in locally sourced stone, all of which adds to the charm of Castleton. Three Roofs has a good range of food, homemade soup and sandwiches and a mouthwatering selection of baked cakes. My healthy eating regime was seriously challenged and devastatingly beaten as the Bakewell tart (Bakewell is another larger village in the national park) proved too much to resist. Lidya opted for the freshly made vegetable soup, which was very warm and hearty after a cool day walking. For all British nationals (or adopted British Indonesians), tea is a must in any cafe and tea is what we got! One pot of tea, at a very reasonable price, served 5 cups per person, enough to warm the heart of any Englishman. Three Roofs Cafe also has an excellent array of of local photographs adorning the walls in which you can admire the beauty of the Peak for anyone unfamiliar with the area.
Having lived in Sheffield since birth the Peak District has become a regular jaunt for me to hike and explore and I'd definitely recommend including Castleton and Peveril Castle as part of your day out.
Just a few side notes: The castle is owned by English Heritage and costs 4.80GBP for adults (4.30GBP for concessions and 2.90GBP for children). The path to the top as previously mentioned is steep so it's definitely worth noting prior to arranging a visit. Unfortunately there is no tour guide but there are plenty of information boards and a guidebook available to purchase so you can read up on its history. Don't forget your camera!
No comments:
Post a Comment