One of Those Moments of Reflection

Whether you are an avid traveler scouring the globe or just enjoy a holiday whenever you can, you might find yourself stumbling upon one of those moments when words and pictures can't describe how you feel. I always imaged these moments in time would come only when experiencing a form of nature, so magnificent and captivating that it's unimaginable to grasp the timescale a landscape has taken to develop and how fortunate you are to have witnessed it in such a stage of its existence. I picture floating on a cormorant fisherman's raft, meandering along the Li river in Southern China surrounded by the jagged alienesque hills of Guilin. I speculate that I'd experience that same stunning aura if I'd hiked 12,000 feet up the Andes mountain chain, the air getting thinner, expecting to reach a conical summit only to be met with Salar de Uyuni, a 4,000+ square mile expanse of salt flat, shimmering mirage like in the burning South American sun. I expect nature to be the only one to leave me in a state of awe, for nature has had the time to develop a landscape so beautiful without the hindrance of man. However, I have only experienced this state of true reflection once, not in the presence of a purely natural scene, but at Borobudur Temple, Indonesia.

Jakarta's train station. The largest mosque in SE Asia in the
background and the women only carriage of the train

From our second home in Jakarta, West Java, we drove to the train station early one morning before the sun had risen. After purchasing return tickets for 350,000 rupiah (or 25GBP at the time) we were awaiting our 6am carriage to Yogyakarta, Central Java, Indonesia's previous capital city. We'd bought seats in the executive cabin of the train as, by British standards anyway, 25GBP is extremely cheap for a 336 mile, 8 hour train journey, return! When you consider that a train journey from my home in Sheffield to London is half that distance and, bought only a few days in advance, a one way ticket costs 50GBP I was extremely happy with the price. Anyway, the train consisted of around eight or nine carriages on arrival, one executive, one business and the rest standard, except for the last carriage which was reserved for women passengers only, as is the norm on Indonesia's trains. This isn't a isolated sex orientated division either, as I found that there are also women's parking spaces situated closer to shopping entrances in some malls, as well as the more religious divisions in pray among mosque goers. The compartment we were in was very spacious, plenty of leg room, not the comfiest of seats but able to recline with two arm rests and the added bonus of our own personal food cart which was always available within our cabin. As we chugged slowly through the melee of corrugated tin roofs of shanties and the hectic cries of the city's markets, we started to leave the metropolis of Jakarta behind, the chaotic scenes making way to much more aesthetic looking fields. The landscape gradually became more undulating and unpredictable, traversing rivers and hillsides, crisscrossing rice paddies and small tracts of rain forest. It wasn't quite as dramatic as I'd hoped but then again Java and Bali which I have frequented the most haven't quite lived up to my expectations in regards to natural grandeur and the tropical paradise in which I envisioned, mostly because of the overcrowded roads and the much cultivated land. Nonetheless, it was a whole lot better than being stuck in Jakarta's traffic for three hours travelling no more than six miles! The train journey was, despite its length, pleasant, the only drawback for me being that had I needed to go to the toilet in more urgent circumstances (I'm still not great with some Indonesian food), then the hole in the floor and the lack of toilet paper which constituted a toilet would have no doubt ruined my whole experience.

At Borobudur's base.

We arrived at a very frenetic Yogyakarta train station mid afternoon under a tropical monsoon. Having made our way through the swaths of persistent taxi and tuktuk drivers offering their services we chose a much drier 4x4 to escort us to our hotel, the Royal Ambarrukmo. My first impressions of Jogja, as it is more commonly known throughout Indonesia, was much the same as Jakarta, minus the skyscrapers but much more hilly. It has the same frantic streets, rife with the sound of car horns and shouts from the roadside food stall sellers, the same shabby shacks lining the streets selling everything from electrical goods to refurbished office furniture. The one thing the city didn't have as oppose to Jakarta though was that capital feel. Where investment is obvious to see in the country's capital, Jogja seems to have been left behind, spared of the development which would have seen in progress at an albeit slower rate than Jakarta. I did enjoy my time in the city though, the grand palaces of the ex capital were rather grand among its perfected trimmed lawns, the place oozed history as it has been at the heart of all Java's dynasties throughout its rich history. And perhaps most importantly for me, since I mentioned early about my stomach still struggling to adapt to some Indonesian food, we found a restaurant where I not only enjoyed the atmosphere and food, I can honestly say I had the most amazing curry I have ever eaten. The restaurant was called Gajah Wong, it consisted of three styles of rooms with accompanying music. We choose to eat in the jazz spirited part which had a mixture of authentic Indonesian and Western tastes. Having traveled midweek the restaurant wasn't busy so we sat alone beside a beautiful antique piano as the musician and singer graced us with melodic free-flowing jazz, the whole ambiance wouldn't have been out of place on a Parisian boulevard. After choosing to have a Malay orientated curry we further enjoyed the harmonic music as we awaited our meal. Lidya, a mix of impatience waiting for our meal and the urge to sing, joined the young female vocalist and sang 'Girl from Ipanema'. She absolutely brought the house down! Well, I gave her a standing ovation plus the pianist, singer and one waitress which accumulated the whole room. I think the only regret I had that evening was not taking a picture of the work of art that was my meal. I'm from Yorkshire, England, where we enjoy a good hearty meal, I don't need a fancy picture perfect plate or a gourmet styled tiny morsel of fancy, hard to pronounce, cuisine, I just need a good heartwarming dish, and plenty of it! However, for the first time, I got both. My plate consisted of a mildly spiced Malay curry with boneless chicken breast, a wicker basket of sticky Indonesian rice, the most crisp and vibrant side salad, diced and fashioned into an array of shapes which was fascinating it itself, half a dozen dips and aromatic sauces, a large stack of chapati and the most bizarre concoction of banana spiced chutney. It was one of those dishes where you know you are full but just can't stop eating. I haven't been back to Yogyakarta since but even if it wasn't from the attraction of seeing Prambanan or a return visit to Borobudur, I would truthfully go back just so I could order this curry again. If they did deliveries to England I would be on the phone straight away!

Lidya at the main stairway of the temple.

We woke up the next morning, me having had lucid dreams of last nights meal, fresh and ready to explore Borobudur. I must admit that previous to my travels to see Lidya in Indonesia, I had never heard of Borobudur before so had no intention of seeing it, it was only through a bit of research via google and searching for images of various cities around Java in which to visit that I stumbled across it. I have always been in awe of ancient architecture, whether it be centuries old British castles and cathedrals, the Roman ruins across Europe or the more commonly known temples of the Egyptians or Mayans, so visiting Borobudur sounded just the sort of thing I'd love to see. As we drove through the central Javan countryside we passed distinctive lava stream beds of past mount Merapi eruptions, a reminder that we were in a setting where nature really did rule. Rising just shy of 3,000m, the volcano was a daunting figure yet its flanks were heavily cultivated as the ash provides nutrient rich soil for agricultural use. As we left Merapi behind to our right we turned towards the ancient temple complex, getting the odd glimpse of its peak figurines among the tropical mishmash of trees. The temple was set in a wonderfully well kept park, giant trees wrapped in creepers and vines with an abundance of tropical flowers adorning the beds beside the lawns. The temple itself emerges as you follow the winding path through the foliage, dwarfing the tropical plants which had only a few minutes ago looked the equivalent of nature's skyscrapers. As the obstructions cleared and it revealed itself in front of our eyes, that's the moment you can take in just how complex and the vast Borobudur really is.

Buddhist figurine looking out towards the mountains.

Built in the 8th and 9th centuries, Borobudur was and still is, 12 centuries later, the largest Buddhist monument ever built. That means, despite the technological advances we've experienced over the passed millennium and how basic everyday commodities such as transport, tools and the non existence of machinery was back then, the people in the time of the Syailendra dynasty responsible for building it have never been surpassed. That is ridiculous! When you consider that we live in an age when mankind is trying to build things bigger and better than ever, when the tallest building in the world gets outdated within a few years, these ingenious people with their rudimentary tools managed to create a temple that still stands in the most magnificent and inhospitable of places today, as the largest of its kind. I'd compare Borobudur to the Egyptian pyramids or the Mayan's in Central America in terms of structure, only of course in a South East Asian way. The temple is built in three tiers, forming a 'square' triangle, encompassing 2,500m square. The three tiers represent the Buddhist philosophy of kamadhatu (the base of the temple), rupadhatu (the mid section) and arupadhatu (top section) of which makes interesting reading but I will spare you the details here. All you need to know is it was constructed perfectly in accordance with Buddhist lore. Atop the pyramidal structure are 72 bell like statues, many more Buddhist figurines and expertly carved platforms and walls. An army of workers must have toiled in tropical disease infested rain forest, through monsoon type weather and the very possible threat from Merapi and other active volcano's in Central Java, to shape the 60,000m3 of stone that comprises the monument. What makes it even more remarkable as mentioned before is all this was done a millennium ago, 300 years before the more famous and popular Angkor Wat in Cambodia. Borobudur has since been reinvigorated by UNESCO as it was abandoned for at least 500 years and subjected to volcanic eruptions and weathering but the fact it has survived is a testament to the dynastic, visions of the king who built it and the Buddhist faith.

Lidya's moment of reflection.

When I scaled the worn steps on that day in 2012, early in the morning before the crowds had arrived, I reached the summit and that's where I experienced my only moment of true reflection. From the bell on the peak of the pyramid you gaze out over rain forest in every direction until you hit the abrupt rising mountains and volcano chain that gave birth to these islands. It's hard to imagine living in a place so wild and unruly, so full of myth and unpredictability. Yet years ago, five centuries before the introduction of Islam to what is now the world's most populous Islamic country, a dynasty began building the world's greatest ever temple to Buddha. It would have been a monumental achievement had they built it on flat grassy plains nearby a river or a stone's through away from the Java sea yet this is constructed on a hill in the middle of the humid heartlands of a tropical island. It's astonishing to think that thousands of tonnes of stone were carved and fashioned into detailed statuettes, huge slabs of identical stone, all of which were carried miles uphill then pieced together like a massive 3D jigsaw in the most inhospitable place imaginable. As I gazed out, looking at the surrounding tranquility of the Javanese landscape, the whole aura of the place just seemed right. Borobudur will stay with me forever and I would not hesitate to return given the opportunity, or for the curry!

For additional information on Borobudur please check on Unesco's website here: whc.unesco.org/en/list/592

Rich  

Yorkshire's Capital of Food - Malton Foodfest

   This weekend I decided to drive up to Malton, North Yorkshire, midway between York and Scarborough, for a food festival at a place acclaimed to be Yorkshire's food capital. A steady 80 minute drive up the M1 and A64 from Sheffield through brilliant yellow fields of rapeseed took us to the medieval market town, situated in idyllic countryside just south of the North York Moors National Park and 20 miles inland from the North Sea coastline. With the promise of plenty of stalls selling locally produced goodies, freshly cooked and baked treats and an array of continental sellers flogging their country's delicacies I thought it would be wise to skip breakfast to allow more room for tasting! I'm happy to say that it was well worth starving myself for.

Before the main crowds arrived.

   After parking up in the main car park, just a stones throw away from the centre of the town, I was happy to find that the parking was just 1.50GBP for the entire day, plus the toilets were free, something that is becoming all too rare nowadays. This put me in a good mood from the start and convinced me that drinking at the beer tent would now be a relatively cheap and consequence free (ish) experience. Having sat patiently salivating in the car journey on the way North in anticipation of the bounty of food on offer my brother and I decided it wise to start with locally reared venison from ROUND GREEN Farm in the form of a burger. We'd arrived about 10am and having strolled into the market area the sizzling venison on the grill and the smoky smell enticed me to look no further. Topped with crispy onions, cheese, tomato relish and finished on a white breadcake, I couldn't have asked for a better way to start our Malton food experience. Ironically, the farm is located only 6 miles from my home in South Yorkshire so fortunately for me I will have the chance of buying this venison again without having the travel far.

St. Michael's Anglican Church

   The square, encircling St. Michael's Anglican church, was bustling on all sides with stalls selling everything from cheese, meats, locally grown fruit and vegetables, fresh bread, pies, oils, regionally brewed alcohol to continental delights such as baklava, pastas and confectionery, all intermingled between grills and stoves cooking a variety of worldwide street foods such as burgers, nachos, hotdogs, hog roasts, Thai cuisine or for the sweet tooth Spanish churros and French crepes. All this combined with musicians, whether it be the orchestra or drummers that played on the main stage or the young talented artists that sang, guitar in hand, on any unoccupied corner gave a really festival atmosphere to what proved to exceed all expectation. Although we didn't buy tickets to some of the events of the day, cookery classes were available along side internationally renowned chefs, live demonstrations took place to provide the intrigued amateur chef with tips and advice, book signings and interviews and tasting sessions progressed as the day went on. The crowds bustled through the cobbled North Yorkshire streets as the town crier rang his bell in his eighteenth century attire. But most impressive of all the attractions and chaos was the outside bar!

The beer tent

   During the day we spent the majority of our time camped beside a large beer barrel table, pint glass in hand, sampling the local breweries creation. Brass Castle Brewery, situated in Malton, one of two responsible with quenching our thirst, whether it be the pint of Tail Gunner or Malton Amber, or a glass of Northern Monk from the Leeds based distillery, each with its own distinct colouration, aroma and taste. From here we had the music of the main stage echoing through the pavilion and the vociferous crowd of beer connoisseurs, as every man is when he's surpassed three pints. At 3.50GBP per pint there was very little excuse not to be drinking outside in the glorious early summer sun. It was time to get some more food to soak up all that beer.
   As a lover of Latin American/Spanish food we opted to test two stalls, one for something savoury, one for something sweet. El Kantina provided us with a large portion of its 'Ninja Nachos', a combination of crispy tortilla chips lathered in cheese, tangy tomato salsa and juicy pulled pork, topped with chopped hot jalapenos. A mix of Mexican and Southern State street food classics all produced freshly from the fields and farms of Yorkshire created a unsurprisingly delicious snack. El Kantina, like most of the other mobile stalls, are available for hire at events and parties so please do check them out online. Travelling back into Europe, or the next stall along, we bought one of my current favourite dessert, churros. This is fried dough in a stick like shape powdered with cinnamon sugar with an accompanying pot of either chocolate or caramel sauce. If every there was a reason to stop keeping fit and healthy and just give in to greed and gluttony it's for churros! Like El Kantina, Senor Churro is also available for hire, they also sell hot drinks and create their food with as many fairtrade products as possible, another great reason to give in to the temptations.

Yorkshire Dales Real Food stall.

    We finished our Malton Food Festival trip with another stroll around the square and a bit of present shopping for the family. We bought a chilli plant from 'Yorkshire Chilies', producing a variety of bullet shaped jalapeno that can be eaten when green (mild) or when red (hot), we purchased healthy sugar free walnut granola for our health conscience mum from Yorkshire Dales Real Food, something she's given the thumbs up to and is almost gone after 2 days, plus a unique shape of pasta made in 'Yara's Kitchen' by Etruscany. I could quite easily have spent a small fortune on so much more as we were drawn to nearly every market stall by the most amazing incenses, blends and charismatic sellers.
   Malton has it's major food festival once a year and it is definitely an event I will be going back to in 2016 and recommend it highly. They also have a monthly market that can be found at www.maltonyorkshire.co.uk for anyone who is looking for a day out. I am home now, weighing slightly more, having an ever higher expectation of ingredients and conceding that Malton probably does deserve the title of Yorkshire's food capital.

A cabbage and leek cow. Healthy but doesn't provide a good steak.

Rich

GWK Cultural Park, Bali

Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park is a place that I've visited twice during my travels to Indonesia, once in February 2012 and once in February 2015. The first time I went I was in awe, not particularly of what was there at the time but of what it promised. The torso of Vishnu (Wisnu), a Hindu God, and the mythical bird Garuda, Vishnu's stead and Indonesia's national symbol, tower above everything in the park and are therefore the main attractions. These statues, although already impressive, are only part complete so stand in wait for the rest of the parts to be finished. I Nyoman Nuarta, Indonesia's most highly acclaimed sculptor, models and develops the parts in Bandung, West Java, out of brass and copper before shipping the parts to the south of Bali. When complete, the statue will consist of Wisnu riding Garuda as depicted in Hindi teachings, complete with a golden mosaic coated crown for the God and decorations for the legendary bird. The statue will have a combined weight of 3000 tons of copper! To put that into some perspective, the Statue of Liberty weights 204 tons. It will be almost 3 times as tall as the the US' great figure with a wingspan of 64 metres. Not only this, it'll sit on a pedestal of 30,000 square metres containing an art gallery and conference centre among other facilities. 30,000 square feet! That's huge, it's like the equivalent of an average Premier League players house. 

   

 When I first saw the current monuments at GWK I was excited at the prospect of seeing one of the world's biggest ever statues as it gave me a glimpse of what was to come. Unfortunately, 3 years later and it's in the same state as what it was on my initial visit. Maybe I'm just impatient to see progress. How long does it take to make a phoenix as long as 10 buses and a Godly figure with a gold encrusted crown as tall as 60 Peter Crouch's? There's no doubt I will go back if I have the opportunity when I know it's complete but until then I won't be returning. I wouldn't particularly recommend it to tourists at this stage or discourage anyone from going if they had this in mind but from my point of view, the whole park is a project in process. It's built into an abandoned limestone mine that looks like the set of the film 'Maze Runner' and offers what feels like a natural but clearly manmade environment. Other facilities on site include a large amphitheater where the traditional Balinese dancers in fully classical attire and masks tell the story of Garuda and other Hindu deities to the sound of the gongs and angklung. Fortunately for us, there was a very nervous looking bloke sat in front of us who stood out of the crowd more than we did so he got chosen to dance on stage. After making a swift exit we headed to a small row of shops that sell all the authentic Indonesian products: cloth, instruments, packaged food, pictures. Lidya however thought it would be a good idea to go for a therapeutic massage session which I happily agreed to, only to be terribly misinformed and ended up laid on my side while a elderly woman held a burning candle in my ear. Due to the fact that I had a flame very close to my head and extremely flammable hair, which seems to be receding at a rapid rate, I found this anything but relaxing. After about 15 minutes of this I'm still none the wiser as to what it was for as my hearing was still the same.

   The grounds surrounding the stalls are quaint and very tranquil, with a lotus pond and flowering trees, something I hope to see more of on the estate next time. Other than this, the area is vast but pretty bland. Facing away from Garuda at the western end you look out at a track of lawn between the the limestone cliff faces with nothing but a small human sized figure at the far end. Whether they have any plans to develop this area is unclear, it could be the location for the eventual final mega statue which, if chosen, I think would somewhat reduce the impact its presence would have as it would be sandwiched in a valley. For me, some kind of botanical garden would compliment the serenity of the place and be fitting among religious icons.

   

When you pull up to the park entrance off a busy street heading south from Bali's Ngurah Rai International airport I expected it to be like most of my Balinese experiences: interesting, picturesque but too much litter and massively overcrowded. What I found to be the case here though, bizarrely, was the complete opposite. Soon as we entered the gates the usual bustle and reverberation of bike engines disappeared and we were suddenly in a peaceful locale. The shacks lined up between 7Elevens or Indomaret's vanished and we were surrounded by vibrant green lawns, rubbish free and tidy. This was short lived though when we were greeted by the soothing sounds of circular saws cutting through the concrete throughout the entrance and pedestrian walkways just through the turnstiles and the sight of heavy machinery landscaping certain areas. Work in progress is very much what GWK is at this moment. 

I love the ambition of the project and what it will represent for Indonesia when or if it is ever completed. It would be a massive accomplishment and generate an influx of tourists to see one of Asia's most spectacular creations. And probably most importantly of all, unlike the Spring Temple Buddha statue in Henan Province, China, it will be accessible to tourists without having to travel far from the main resorts (15 minute drive from the airport, 40 from Kuta and 90 from Ubud). I have a lot of admiration for I Nyoman Nuarta and can't fault his enthusiasm for such a grand plan. I generally can not wait to visit when it's all complete and that gold enameled crown is final placed upon Wisnu's head.

Rich

Roche Abbey, South Yorkshire

Imagine this scenario. You are told by your boss that you have a business trip to the UK. You've never been before so you are understandably excited and it's a three day trip so surely you can take in the sights. You're already planning to pose inside a red telephone box in front of Big Ben, hit Piccadilly Circus at night and tell all your friends you've had tea with the Queen. Then your boss tells you that you aren't going to London. You try to stay optimistic, you could take an Old Trafford tour if it's Manchester or enjoy the 'City of Culture' and see the Beatles museum if you're based in Liverpool. Then you are informed it's Yorkshire. You can't believe your luck, God's Country! Then, as if you have just been punched in the stomach by Tyson in his prime, your boss mutters 'Rotherham'. Rotherham!? You could watch Rotherham United Football Club said no tourist ever. Do you feel annoyed? Gobsmacked? Confused? Either way, you need somewhere to venture close by, preferably somewhere that's iconic and will calm you down after your disappointment at being sent to 'Rovrum'. Fortunately, I have the answer.

   Just 10 minutes from the A1(M) and M18, Roche Abbey is set in a beautifully landscaped valley a few miles from Maltby, South Yorkshire. After driving along a country road my SatNav took me onto a one lane cobbled track through a wood at which point the signal cut out and told me to do a U-turn. After proceeding down a hill, almost shaking my car to pieces, I arrived in an opening and parked up. The first thing that greets you is a gatehouse which I unfortunately didn't snap a photograph of. This is divided into two gateways, one for carts and the other for pedestrians, in which the monks also distributed food through to the less fortunate of the time. I further found out that the weathered figures of entrance were exceptionally rare for a Cistercian Abbey as images were prohibited on holy buildings. The day was glorious, not a cloud in the sky and having visited midday on a Friday it was empty other than myself. After going through the site shop, owned by English Heritage and costing 3.80GBP, I entered the grounds of which were so serene and tranquil that it still felt spiritual despite being long abandoned and dilapidated. 

   Roche Abbey's surroundings were further landscaped in the 18th century to enhance the aura that the abbey exudes. Two streams also flow through the foundations, creating a halcyon atmosphere as the trickle of water further adds to the soothing environment of the whole scene. The abbey used to be dived into two living quarters, the monks, numbering 150 in its prime, occupied the east and the lay brothers abode in the west.  The only part of the abbey that has survived to any significant height are the transepts which are still viewed as important evidence of Gothic ruins for the North of England. What makes Roche Abbey somewhat unique is that Yorkshire monasteries tended to extend their buildings as required with the growth of its population but Roche maintained its original construction leading to the remains which are left behind now near enough all original, over 800 years old. 

   I spent about 45 minutes strolling around the ruins, over the stream, taking photographs of the columns and ruinous stonework and generally enjoying the peace and quiet. Whether or not you take pleasure in visiting religious or historic sites it's hard to not appreciate how large the monastery would have been as a structure built in the twelfth century, considering it is an example of a modestly sized church. It was Gothic inspired and takes a lot of influence from the French built abbeys of the time as oppose to the Roman style versions. Only 15 minutes from Rotherham town centre, Roche Abbey is a place worth seeing as a part of a day out, whether you're a seasoned historical traveler or just fancy somewhere different to have a picnic on a sunny day. 

For any further information, check out the English Heritage website. Conisborough Castle is also nearby if you fancy something different.

Richard

TwentyToesUK

A Long Journey on The Flight Number 24

This is my first time going on Q***r Airways. I am a frequent flyer with Etihad Airways.

Honestly, i don't know what to expect towards this flight. Right now i'm writing this, i'm still on the plane with 2 hours and 37 minutes left until the plane arrived in Doha. During this journey so far, i can't say it was a pleasant. There are numbers of unfortunate events that i got. It makes me angry, so angry that i decided to write a blog.

For a disclaimer, i am not blaming Q***r Airways for my unfortunate journey. Well, at least not all. The service so far is immense. Better than the two big Airlines on middle-eastern territory. Two thumbs up for that.

I think i just not fancy being in plane at this moment. The whole day i've been exhausted and overwhelmed with everything. So probably, it is partially my fault? Maybe.

My experience at Manchester International Airport went well. Although the B****r K**g lady decided to shake it a bit by giving me six chicken fries whilst i paid for nine. Cheater! Oh, and when i complain about it, i get a dirty look by one of the B****r K**g lad for leaving my luggages unattended. Literally 2 meters away from me. Give me a break.........

Ok back on the plane journey.

We get on board 30 minutes before the plane take off. My seat is 20D. Beside me, there is two empty seat and one lady seat on the other end of the aisle. Spacious.

First thing that i noticed are the seats. Completely different from the seats on Emirates Airways and Etihad Airways. Make sense because i normally went on Boeing. This is Airbus.

My phone was about to die. The battery marks 1%. Lovely iPhone's battery quality. I need to charge it otherwise i need to leave my phone at Doha Airport since you can't fly with electronic devices that are dead. (If you are not familiar with this silly regulation, this is a new regulation).

So because of that, i went upside-down, back and forward, twist my body to the left and right, to find the USB port or an electrical sockets like they have in every Boeing. I cannot find any. Yes, they have no socket for anything in this whole plane. Luckily, i have a portable charger in my bag. (If you want to see what my long haul flight travel essential, please comment down below and i will happily make a vlog about it).

Soon as the plane take off, i went to the lavatory. On my way back, i noticed that seats 17DEFG are empty. So i went to the flight attendant and ask if that's alright to move. She said yes. So i did.

Moved to the seat 17D with a massive smile on my face because i thought i can actually spend the whole journey by sleeping using the whole 4 seats. I cannot be more wrong about it.

First two hours of the journey was a hell because there is 3 kids in total from sitting on row 16 and 18. So my position, i'm in between disaster. None of them stopped crying the first two hours of the journey. After that, row 16 kid's mom finally stopped her son crying by letting him watch a cartoon movie. Give thanks. The row 18 kids however, the older one is asleep right now. She stopped crying when the food came. And the younger one, he's still crying until this second i write this. His parents don't seem to care at all about how inconvenience it is for other fellow passengers. Mom and dad watching movie with headphones on apparently. Laugh Out Loud. -.-"

Meal comes! Food! My favourite time on the plane! A lovely flight attendant ask what i want to eat. Unlike Etihad Airways and Emirates Airways, Q***r Airways did not give you a menu card. So the lovely lady will spell it out for you. Today's menus are Chicken with Pasta, Beef with Potato, Vegetable Curry with Rice. I went for beef and potato thinking the potato will be roasted. Opening the food, i never felt so sick in my life. It honestly looked like a prisoners' food. It's so salty. The potato was mashed. I think. Or instant mash. I eat them anyway, i was quite hungry. 

After the meal i try to sleep again. This time,i use my noise cancelation headphones. WOOHOO. Oh, i didn't mentioned that the arm rest on this plane can't be pulled up completely. So i sleep under them. Haha. Comfortable.

After shuffling here and there, i finally successfully fall asleep. 15 minutes post my so much effort to fall asleep and finally succeed, i feel something touching my face. I open my eyes, how shocked i was to see a bottom part of an old lady on my face. She made my row of seats her bridge to go from aisle to aisle. Manners? I was not bothered to say anything, i was concentrating myself to sleep so i won't look dead when i'm arrived in Indonesia.

Thirty minutes passed from the butt incident, i feel something touching my feet. Feeling annoyed, i open my eyes again. You know what i see? The old lady from the bum incident. Sat comfortably on my feet. For heaven sake! I pulled my feet away from her and try to go back to sleep. My feet cramp after awhile. I don't say anything, though. I'm just nice that way. Fell asleep for the 15386389963 times, i thought it's all good now. But again i am wrong. The lovely lady decided to push my feet away. So she can stretch her feet. Remember i'm having cramp? Yes that makes me wake up for the 15386389963 times. This time, there is no more snow white bright true love heart for me. I sat looking pissed until she saw my face. Then i said,"You shocked me." You know what she did after? Ap... No. She smiles. Take one of my pillows and my blanket, then sleep. LIKE NOTHING HAPPENED.

Right now i'm currently sitting on 17D. Why? Because she took the rest of the seats for herself. I swear. ARGHHHH!! And to complete my pain, her feet touching my leg. No, her feet are ON MY LEGS. Really, how could it be worse?

I'm sorry Q***r, this part is not your fault. I think i'm just unfortunate.

Two hours to go now. I hope there will be no more crap things happen to me.

I will write posts during my journey in Indonesia. Right now i am trying to get a portable camera so i can vlog everything beside the blog posts.

Thank you so much for reading my grumpy post. Please comment down below! We love to hear from you!

Don't forget to follow us at Instagram and Twitter at : @TwentyToesUK

Ok, love ya all!

Lidya Phipps

An Indonesian Coffee - Subak Bali Agro

   If you wander into your local cafe or buy coffee or teas from a nearby supermarket you may well notice a selection from around the world, Indonesia being one of those destinations. What better place to experience a tasting session then than underneath a luscious green canopy of coconut palms, pineapple plants and papaya trees on a Balinese hillside. Lidya, my brother Matt, and I traveled to Bali and Java in February 2015 and through Lidya's family ties on the Island, we managed to obtain a local resident from the town of Sanur called Bli Komang to drive us around Bali. He was a very proud Balinese man, aged only 27, owned his own chauffeur company and enjoyed his responsibilities of taking business personnel around his homeland. A dedicated Buddhist, Bali's principal religion, Bli knows his birth island like the back of his hand having never ventured off its shores. He took us to a small coffee tasting shop called Subak Bali Agro, on the descent back down from Ulun Danu temple in central Bali.

   We were greeted with a smile by a young local employee who led us through the forested vegetation on a meandering track, pointing out various plants and their fruits, including the coffee beans. He also introduced us to their most highly treasured employee, the civet. These animals, native to South East Asian rainforests are responsible for providing the main ingredient in the much sought after 'Kopi Luwak', or Indonesia's equivalent of Italian Cappuccino, 'Catpooccino', as our tour guide referred to it. The coffee beans are eaten by the civet and pass through the digestive tract before then being defecated with other waste products (They are poo'd out!). These are then collected and roasted to make the Kopi Luwak.

   We sat down at a table at which point the heaven's opened and gave us the true experience of visiting an equatorial region. Fortuitously our table had a thatched palm leaf roof so we stayed relatively dry. We were then brought 12 varieties of locally brewed coffees and teas, each with its own unique aroma, flavour and some with medicinal properties. Firstly, as the most famous of its creations, we tried the Luwak with its deep brown colour and earthy aroma, while I can only imagine the civet, had it known what we were drinking and appreciating, must have been chuckling to itself. It has a rich gritty taste and something I would highly recommend trying if you venture to Indonesia. Do avoid the processed sachets though that bear its name as it doesn't do the freshly roasted version true justice. We sniffed, twirled, sipped and admired, like true connoisseurs (even if we had no idea what we were doing), each of the beverages one by one and picked our favourites. I rather liked the coconut infused tea and coffee as it gives them a natural richness without the need for sugar and the ginger coffee as it has a really kick to it. I ended up purchasing mangosteen tea however, as reading through the curative characteristics that it is said to possess, I'm pretty sure that having drank a whole bag full I am now immortal. Our tour guide also mentioned to us while sampling the aphrodisiac ginseng coffee that 'this makes papa strong, mama will be happy in the bedroom'. I can only conclude from his broken English that this was lost in translation as Lidya is definitely not convinced!

Once we had finished our tasting session we headed to the accompanying shop. Still under a tropical monsoon, we were kindly handed umbrellas and escorted along the waterlogged muddy path which had now turned into a fast flowing stream. All the coffees and teas that you sample during the tour are available to purchase in store, plus various chocolate products flavoured with the same ingredients. Overall the experience was educational and informative, entertaining and most of all delicious and is definitely something worth incorporating into a vacation in Bali.

Notes: The actual coffee tasting and tour through the grounds at Subak Bali Agro is free, the only expense being a cup of Kopi Luwak for 60,000Rp (3.50GBP). The prices in the shop afterwards should you wish to purchase any of the items are similar to Western prices, fairly dear by Indonesian standards. As a side note, due to the demand for the luwak coffee civets are farmed and often subjected to animal cruelty. Please be aware of this and make sure if you purchase Kopi Luwak in Indonesia that it is from a sustainable source.

An Indonesian Culinary Adventure

Ten of our toes will shortly be jetting off with Qatar Airways from Manchester, UK, to Jakarta, Indonesia. Stay tuned for a bit of Indonesian culture and some local foodie delights.

Lidya

Peveril Castle - Castleton, Peak District National Park, UK

Overlooking the village of Castleton, Peveril Castle, named after William Perevil who was the original occupier, stands as a reminder of medieval governance over the Peak District. Today it is in a ruinous state but with a bit of a imagination, although not primarily used as a fortress for warfare, it must have cast an imposing shadow over a vast but otherwise rural landscape. We parked up in Castleton, pretty much an idyll British countryside village, next to the Peak Information centre and museum, before wandering through the narrow streets to the base of the hill. After a zigzagged steep climb up the northern face of the peak you enter the castle through what used to be the back entrance at the northeast, who face is too sheer to offer any decent access to the carts or transport of the period. Luckily for Lidya, there were plenty of benches on the way up the path. All I kept reminding her was that she should be grateful English Heritage had laid a walkway as anyone attempting to ransack the castle throughout history wouldn't have been so fortunate.

The fort was constructed shortly after the Battle of Hastings and subsequent Norman conquest to govern over the 'Forest of the Peak'. The national park was originally used as royal hunting grounds so provide an ideal location for any regal subjects to reside in their brief stay. Lead mining was the major source of income for the castle which was accountable for controlling the taxation on this and milling activities. As Lidya and I found out, the castle sits in a beautiful location with spectacular views over what is now picturesque postcard English scenery. Although our thighs and calves were aching, the view is definitely worth the ascent. The walls, much lower than their original height due to weathering and the removal of defunct stones for other purposes, encircle the keep and foundations of various buildings including a grand hall and owners living quarters.We found the best view in the grounds to be a central bench midway up overlooking Castleton and the western end of the Hope Valley all the way to Mam Tor. It's definitely an ideal picnic site if you don't find yourselves shedding weight on the climb up.

 The keep on the southwest corner stands on the highest part of the castle interior and is unfortunately much dilapidated. Peveril is an example of a smaller keep, set on only two floors, much less striking than the likes of Conisborough and Bolsover nearby. However, it's certainly not without its charm. The square fort consists of what was once a storeroom at the bottom and an entertaining chamber for hosting and ceremonies. We found that from the outside despite a perfectly clear day, the cawing of the glossy black ravens overhead and the decaying state of the keep added a certain eeriness to the place. Inside it's anything but, however. The roof is vacant and the keep has large domineering windows to observe the surrounding landscape so it is very well lit. Leaning against the cold middle aged stones admiring the scenic panorama, it's easy to believe that Peveril and his successors must have held one of the more pleasant roles of the kingdom at the time.

 Castleton is a good day out for rambling, a relaxed family stroll with a cup of tea, or, as I have found out, great for a pub crawl (it's a British tradition!). This time however, as I had to work in the evening, we decided to visit the Three Roofs Cafe across from our car park. The quaint little cafe is built, like the other houses and shops, in locally sourced stone, all of which adds to the charm of Castleton. Three Roofs has a good range of food, homemade soup and sandwiches and a mouthwatering selection of baked cakes. My healthy eating regime was seriously challenged and devastatingly beaten as the Bakewell tart (Bakewell is another larger village in the national park) proved too much to resist. Lidya opted for the freshly made vegetable soup, which was very warm and hearty after a cool day walking. For all British nationals (or adopted British Indonesians), tea is a must in any cafe and tea is what we got! One pot of tea, at a very reasonable price, served 5 cups per person, enough to warm the heart of any Englishman. Three Roofs Cafe also has an excellent array of of local photographs adorning the walls in which you can admire the beauty of the Peak for anyone unfamiliar with the area.

    
   Having lived in Sheffield since birth the Peak District has become a regular jaunt for me to hike and explore and I'd definitely recommend including Castleton and Peveril Castle as part of your day out.

   Just a few side notes: The castle is owned by English Heritage and costs 4.80GBP for adults (4.30GBP for concessions and 2.90GBP for children). The path to the top as previously mentioned is steep so it's definitely worth noting prior to arranging a visit. Unfortunately there is no tour guide but there are plenty of information boards and a guidebook available to purchase so you can read up on its history. Don't forget your camera!

An Introduction

   For us, like many, travelling is a passion and stirs an ambition to see new things, become immersed in contrasting cultures and encounter local residents. Here at TwentyToes we aren’t going to show you the regular tourist attractions that put places on the map. Our aim is to explore the sites, eat the food and talk to the characters that aren’t on most people’s radar. When you go to Italy you head to Rome to see the Vatican, Colosseum or Pantheon or Venice to stand on the Rialto Bridge. Maybe if you’re a bit more adventurous you’ll go to Naples to see Pompeii or head to Lake Garda and discover the towns on its mountainous shores. But what about the forgotten landmarks of these cities? What about those towns and cities which aren’t on the tourist map? Ravenna was the Roman Empires capital for 74 years and has magnificent architecture from this period yet it’s rare any casual traveller traverses this area. The thrill seeking hikers flock to Machu Picchu but what about the other lost cities of the Inca? What do the Peruvian people inherit from their ancient relatives in their opinion? These are the kinds of questions and the objects we intend to discover.

Behind The Name

   We have started TwentyToesUK to help ourselves look differently at the world and hopefully open your eyes to some of the overlooked places around the globe. The twenty toes belong to me, Richard, from Sheffield, England and my Indonesian wife, born and raised in Jakarta. We aren’t backpackers nor blessed with money to navigate the world but we’ll steadily explore from our base in South Yorkshire. I will concentrate on the sites that we encounter and Lidya will indulge you in the local delicacies of the areas we visit. (Somehow despite constantly speaking, thinking and eat food she still maintains her figure, one of the mysterious of life (this has nothing to do with jealousy)). Lidya has an upcoming trip to Jakarta on May 14^th for two weeks in which she’ll be exploring some of Indonesia’s many islands so expect a culinary delight of South East Asian cuisine. We travel to Menorca, Spain in June to search out the locations beyond the beaches and a trip to Cornwall in August, the UK’s surfing county. We hope to educate interest, inspire and hopefully make you smile as you join us on our journey.

We will be designing the blog over the coming weeks so it's more user friendly and aesthetically pleasing so please bear with us. In the meantime please feel free to follow us and share our adventure with your friends.

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Richard & Lidya

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